6 Types of Pleats Widely Used in Fashion and Décor

In this post, we'll guide you through the world of pleats and explain how they differ from each other.
By
Jean Chaney
Jean Chaney
Research Writer
Jean is the brains behind her fashion label. She's a whiz with a needle and thread, and has been sewing since she was old enough to hold a pair of scissors. Jean has always read more
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Isabel Misner
Isabel Misner
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A professional seamstress. Isabel has her own video blog where she shares her experience about all the aspects of sewing – from choosing suitable materials to step-by-step read more
Last updated: August 24, 2023
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Pleats are the way to arrange fabrics to add volume to it, held in place using a sewing pin before getting stitched into the fabric. To most people, all pleats are the same. Meanwhile, if you take a closer look, you will discover that they come in different shapes and forms.

There are pleats best suited for décor items such as curtains, while others appear better on fashion items such as skirts, gowns, and coats. In this guide, we will be outlining the various available as well as the clothing they are perfect for.

6 Common Types of Pleats

You need to determine the effect you want to create in a piece of fabric before deciding on which type of pleats to use. Some pleats add volume to clothes while others alter the shape of fabric for added comfort. In the case of skirts, the option is numerous no matter the type of skirt or dress sewn.

We’ve outlined the different types of pleats commonly used below and the type of fabrics they’re used on.

1. Box Pleats

6 Types of Pleats Widely Used in Fashion and DécorBox pleats are not the most common type of pleats you will find on fabrics. They can come in single or double layers. Usually, they contain dual creases facing a different direction to form a raised section at the middle of both creases.

This type of pleats is hardly found in clothing outfits. Rather, they’re used on home décor items such as curtains, and table skirting.

How to Make Box Pleats

  1. Cut a strip of fabric to the desired length, plus an additional 2 inches for each pleat. The width of the strip should be double the desired width of the finished pleat.
  2. Fold the strip of fabric in half lengthwise, with the right sides facing each other. Press the fabric to create a crease down the center.
  3. Measure and mark the fabric at equal intervals, where each pleat will be located. The distance between each mark will depend on the desired finished size of the pleats.
  4. Take the first mark and fold it towards the center crease. Press the fold in place.
  5. Take the next mark and fold it towards the center crease, but in the opposite direction from the first pleat. The first and second pleats should be touching each other at the center crease. Press the second pleat in place.
  6. Repeat the process of folding and pressing until all of the pleats are in place.
  7. Stitch the pleats in place along the top edge of the fabric strip, using a straight stitch and a sewing machine or by hand-sewing.

Note: Before you start, you may want to determine the size and spacing of the pleats based on the specific project you’re working on.

2. Knife Pleats

6 Types of Pleats Widely Used in Fashion and Décor Knife Pleats Trusted Source Knife Pleat | Fashion A-Z | BoF Education | The Business of Fashion From applique to zippers, a comprehensive dictionary with definitions and meanings of key fashion vocabulary, written by Camilla Morton. www.businessoffashion.com are handmade pleats pressed firmly to face one direction. These types of pleats are usually found in skirts and are made to lie flat. For knife pleats to look stunning on any fabric, they have to be pressed with a hot iron to remove wrinkles. One of the best pressing irons for making pleats is the 360 Degrees Cordless Steam and Dry Iron from Panasonic. Ideal for freestyling, this gives fabrics a smooth and silky appearance.

Knife pleats usually give fabrics a slim look. They create an effect that ensures the fabric doesn’t stay glued to the wearer’s body. This makes the fabric comfortable and flexible when worn.

How to Make Knife Pleats

  1. Use a fabric pen or tailor’s chalk to mark the fabric where you want the pleats to be.
  2. Fold the fabric along the marked lines so that it forms a sharp crease. The creases should be the same distance apart.
  3. Secure the pleats in place by inserting pins perpendicular to the fabric at the top and bottom of each pleat.
  4. Use a hot iron to press the pleats, making sure they stay in place.
  5. Stitch the pleats in place by sewing along the top and bottom of each pleat.

3. Inverted Pleats

6 Types of Pleats Widely Used in Fashion and DécorInverted pleats are similar to knife pleats. They are double knife pleats facing opposite directions. It’s formed by stitching large folds of fabric together in the middle. An inverted pleat is also what you get when you turn a box pleat inside out

Unlike most pleats that run down, inverted pleats are only held at the top with headpins before they are stitched together.

Made by Singer, a popular sewing equipment manufacturer, the best straight pin kit is the SINGER 07051. It is recognized by seamstresses and ranked # 1 as Amazon’s best singer straight pins. By using these, the pleating becomes less visible as you move towards the bottom of the dress.

This type of pleats doesn’t look good on full-length gowns. Rather, they’re formed on mini gowns especially those that are at knee or thigh length.

How to Make Inverted Pleats

  1. Cut a piece of fabric to the desired length and width for the pleated area.
  2. Use a fabric marker or tailor’s chalk to mark the location of the pleats on the fabric.
  3. Fold the fabric along the marked lines to create the pleats. Make sure the pleats are all the same size and facing in the same direction.
  4.  Secure the pleats in place by inserting pins along the fold lines. Make sure the pins are facing in the same direction as the pleats.
  5. Using a sewing machine or by hand, sew the pleats in place. Make sure the stitch line is close to the fold line, but not so close that it will show on the front of the fabric.
  6. Use an iron to press the pleats, making sure they are crisp and neat.
  7. Using pins, attach the pleated fabric to the garment, making sure the pleats are aligned and facing the same direction.
  8. Using a sewing machine or by hand, sew the pleated fabric to the garment, making sure the stitch line is close to the edge of the fabric.
  9. Complete the rest of the garment according to the pattern instructions.

4. Kick Pleats

6 Types of Pleats Widely Used in Fashion and DécorKick pleats are usually small pleats appended to the bottom of the fabric to give the wearer more freedom of movement. They are mostly attached to the back of a skirt or coat. In the case of a tight skirt, it’s done to allow the wearer to walk freely. Hence, kick pleats are the right fit for skirts that run beyond the knee if the wearer wants to extend his leg over some inches.

How to Make Kick Pleats

  1. Pick a fabric that is lightweight, easy to fold and drapes well.
  2. Measure the length of the pleat, taking into account the desired length and the size of the garment.
  3. Cut the fabric to the length measured in step 2.
  4. Fold the fabric in half, lengthwise, with the wrong side facing out. Make sure the folded edge is straight and smooth.
  5. Mark the pleat with a fabric pen or tailor’s chalk. Start from the top of the fabric and mark the desired width of the pleat.
  6. Stitch the pleat, starting from the top and ending at the bottom. Use a straight stitch and make sure the stitch is straight and secure.
  7. Press the pleat to set the stitches and make sure the pleat is crisp and sharp.
  8. Attach the pleat to the garment, making sure it is positioned correctly. Sew the pleat in place, making sure the stitch is secure and straight.
  9. Repeat the process for each pleat desired, making sure they are spaced evenly and are the same size.
  10. Finish the garment, hemming the bottom and attaching any buttons, zippers or other fastenings.

5. Accordion Pleats

6 Types of Pleats Widely Used in Fashion and DécorUnlike handmade Knife pleats, accordion pleats are sewn with a machine. This ensures they’re permanently affixed to the fabric, hence, their shape can’t be altered by a simple sewing iron or after washing.

The shape of an accordion pleat is zigzag, but it widens out as you approach the bottom to form a burst. This makes them slim at the top but full at the bottom. Making them a perfect fit for all body types.

How to Make Accordion Pleats

  1. Cut your fabric to the desired length and width, taking into account the finished size of the pleats.
  2. Use a fabric pen or tailor’s chalk to mark the pleat lines on the right side of the fabric. Space the pleats evenly and mark the fold lines at the top and bottom of each pleat.
  3. Fold the fabric along the first marked line, bringing the bottom edge up to the top edge. Pin the fold in place, making sure the top and bottom fold lines match up. Repeat this process for each pleat.
  4. Sew along the bottom fold line of each pleat, securing the folds in place. Use a straight stitch and a consistent seam allowance to ensure the pleats are even and secure.
  5. Depending on the intended use of the pleated fabric, you may want to finish the raw edges with a bias binding or serge them to prevent fraying.
  6. Once the pleats are complete, attach them to the garment or project as desired. Consider using fusible tape or fabric glue to secure the pleats in place before sewing them to the garment.

6. Pintuck Pleats

6 Types of Pleats Widely Used in Fashion and DécorPintuck pleats are a type of decorative fold used in clothing and textiles. They are created by stitching multiple parallel lines of tucks, or gathers, into the fabric, creating small, uniform pleats.

Pintuck pleats are commonly used in clothing such as blouses, dresses, and skirts, and are often added to the front, back, or sleeves of a garment to add texture and visual interest. They can be created in a variety of sizes and styles, ranging from tiny, delicate pleats to large, bold gathers. The type and size of the pintuck pleat can affect the overall look and feel of the garment, making them a versatile embellishment for designers to work with.

How to Make Pintuck Pleats

  1. Prepare your fabric: Cut a piece of fabric to the desired size and iron it to remove any wrinkles.
  2. Mark the pleat lines: Using a fabric pen or tailor’s chalk, mark lines on the fabric where you want to create the pintuck pleats.
  3. Sew the pleats: Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch and sew along the marked lines, making sure to sew just inside the edge of the fabric.
  4. Pinch the fabric: Pinch the fabric along the sewn lines to create the pleats.
  5. Secure the pleats: Stitch a few stitches at the top and bottom of each pleat to secure it in place.
  6. Finish the edges: Fold the fabric under along the edges of the pintuck pleats and sew it in place to finish the edges.
  7. Iron the pleats: Iron the pleats to set them in place and ensure that they lay flat.

FAQ

What fabric holds pleats best?

Fabrics with a tighter weave, such as cotton, silk, and linen, tend to hold pleats the best. These fabrics have a firmer structure, which helps to keep the pleats in place and maintain their shape.

Wool is also a good choice for pleats as it has a natural springiness that helps to maintain the shape of the pleats. Synthetic fabrics, such as polyester, can be used for pleats, but they may not hold the pleats as well as natural fibers.

Pleat depth Trusted Source How to Sew Pleats You might think you know everything about pleats, but watch this video just in case. www.seamwork.com refers to the distance between the folded edge of a pleat and the base of the fabric. It determines the height of the pleat and affects the overall appearance of the finished product. A deeper pleat will result in a more pronounced, dramatic look, while a shallower pleat will create a more subtle, understated look.

References

1.
Knife Pleat | Fashion A-Z | BoF Education | The Business of Fashion
From applique to zippers, a comprehensive dictionary with definitions and meanings of key fashion vocabulary, written by Camilla Morton.
2.
How to Sew Pleats
You might think you know everything about pleats, but watch this video just in case.
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